Via Porthcurno, which hasn’t changed a bit in the 20 years since I was there last, and Cape Cornwall, the thinking man’s Lands End, we made St Ives for dinner. Coast restaurant, on a first floor overlooking the harbour, provided very tasty, filling food for not much money, and with friendly service. Even now, at nine o’clock, St Ives is packed with visitors. Travel tip: park at St Erth and take one of the regular trains up the branch line to St Ives.